this morning was another beautiful day in paradise. paddled out and seen some of the locals enjoying the ride. last week in Japan, there were 30 surfers out, today there were only 3. i’m not sure where everybody is?
Les is one of the coolest guys out there. 67 years old and genki!
took Nakanishi-san surfing this morning. he was super stoked that the waves were so nice. we started Boot Camp and i could see him getting better each wave.
lots of surfers from Japan surf with their front arm hanging down. you should raise it higher like this because your leading front hand actually leads your direction.
see the front hand? your board will follow so let that be your guide, just like on this beautiful cutback.
on this cutback, the front hand dropped again so of course i’m yelling “raise your hand higher!!!!!” in fact, i’m screaming it! haha.
then Nakanishi-san rose his hand and the flow came back again. this is stylish surfing!
good job surfing today! i’m happy you caught so many waves and surfed well. remember to “keep your hands up!!!!”
loco moco for lunch and probably a nice nap to follow. summer Boot Camp continues in Hawaii!
