after yesterdays super windy daytime, i had a feeling that the evening would calm down. and it did just that. the conditions couldn’t have been any better than it was. so i picked up Nakanishi-san and we paddled out into the sunset.
Nakanishi-san is practicing how to do a round house cutback. so i taught him on the beach, and i taught him in the water. i just told him to watch my left hand and my eyes. notice my left hand is up and my eyes are following it right over my hand. my body and surfboard will follow right along. yes, it’s that easy! most people i see in Japan make the mistake of dropping their left hand and eyes. if you do that, it is totally impossible to do a round house cutback. in fact, it is totally impossible to surf correctly. try to surf next time with your left hand up and look over it. you will be freaking surprised!
then it was practice time! nice bottom turn!
perfect! this is exactly how you do it! but if you raise the left hand a little more, it will be even better.
see how the surfboard follows your left hand and eyes?
this one is more perfect! if you can surf like this from take off to end, you will be amazed how fast you will go. and you will be amazed how cooler you will look. great job Nakanishi-san!
we scored again yesterday. the waves were so perfect that i even got a couple barrels. so happy!
you know it’s late when Waikiki starts lighting up. sunrise and sunset surf sessions are my favorite! can’t wait to do it again!
