good evening. after chasing typhoons in japan for the past 20 years, my knowledge and instinct payed off big time. as were were driving shikoku after yesterdays crazy morning session, the waves were getting bigger and bigger. i was thinking in my mind, “there’s gotta be somewhere that is going off!” yes, i only have a few days left in japan so not enough time to sit and wait around. i checked the swell direction, weather, and winds as we were driving around the big island of shikoku. then it popped in my head “i know where to go!!!!” we headed to the ferry port, jumped on the ferry, and made the necessary phone calls. woke up this morning and guess what? the waves were epic! round 1 was 3-5′ and perfect barrels. some just like indonesia. then round 2 was even better. i’d say some 8′ hawaiian scale sets breaking over some shallow reef. surfed that with the locals and had a great time.
where’s the photos? not today. from all the reports i’ve been getting, i know that where we surfed this morning was the best spot in japan. the locals are all very nice, the vibe is great, and the waves even greater. we scored and this typhoon is far from over. tomorrow, i’m moving to another spot and with the luck we’ve been having, i’m sure it’s going to be another great day. there is only one photo from today you will see.
this one. haha. shucks, i better not get any darker or you won’t be able to see me at night. sweet dreams.
