made it right in time for sunset @ Pipeline. it was amazing.
watching the waves and watching the kids enjoying a beautiful holiday.
so many people at the Billabong house with dreams. surfers, champions, family, friends, and lots of love and support.
so happy to talk story with everyone. mostly we were talking about free diving. everybody is hooked!
this is one of the most amazing photos ever taken of Andy Irons. it gives me chicken skin every time i look at it.
i was thinking of going to the Philippines next week to surf with my friend who owns his own island. and on that island, there is a very good right hander.
so good that it barrels on every wave. he always invites me there so i got excited. but i’m one week too late. this as last week. bummer. so i told him next time.
my friend built a place to sleep and hang out overlooking that surf spot. the water comes from the mountain and the electricity comes from the sun. super eco friendly surf camp.
