had a lot of fun surfing with Fukui-san. his first time surfing in Hawaii so he was pretty excited. the waves were small but so was the crowd.
goofy footer with great style. i was watching him catch so many waves riding it all the way to the end.
surfed for 3 hours and Fukui-san still wasn’t tired. lots of energy!
towards the end, there was nobody out. only us and the whole ocean to ourselves! such a lucky man!
it was a very beautiful day!
i don’t care how big, small, clean, or ugly the waves are. i have a magic board for each and every condition. that’s probably why i’m so happy surfing every single day. i’ll never get bored! and stoked to feel so free in my new Dove Wetsuit. feels like i’m wearing nothing at all. but it keeps me warm and protects me from the hot Hawaiian sun!
