i can’t stress how much a surfboard is so important to a happy surfing life. i’d say it’s 90% important on choosing the right board for the right day. Takahashi-san rode my 9’6 and caught so many good waves.
so easy, so effortless, and so fun!
why struggle on a short board when you can fly like this on a longboard? i don’t like struggling myself. haha.
smooth long rides. so easy and so satisfying. today was absolutely gorgeous and very warm.
i came home at 9pm and found out the main water pipe broke up my street. so no water all night!!!
keep calm and just fill up the water jugs. it really makes me appreciate the basic things we all take for granted in life.
i didn’t feel like taking a cold shower so decided to go take a drive for a warm shower. then as soon as i got home, my water was working again. haha. life is still good!
