Good Luck Runners!

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gosh, it was an amazing warm day in Hawaii! went to surf a secret spot with nobody around. scored like usual. tomorrow is the Honolulu Marathon and there are 16,000 Japanese that entered. traffic and lots of closed roads tomorrow so be prepared.

one of the marathon runners is Nara-san. we surfed again today for Boot Camp Day 2. the waves were very challenging because of the onshore winds but that didn’t stop this energetic girl from riding many perfect waves.

it’s incredible how good Nara-san’s balance is. absolutely perfect! i was so happy watching from the side the long rides and big smiles.

double shaka for 2 days of fun in the sun!

good luck Nara-san tomorrow. i’ll be cheering you on! i have so much respect for marathon runners because it’s something i can’t do. ganbatte!

came home and couldn’t believe how big my papaya tree is! with all this rain, it’s growing into a giant. i had to climb it again to pick the sweet ripe papayas.

absolutely naturally grown. a bird came and planted a seed, the rain from the mountains watered it, and now i’m eating the sweetest papayas in Hawaii!

my gardenia plant is getting huge too. flowers all year around and the sweetest smell filling up the air in the neighborhood. i love it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide