Legends…

245

surfed the West side @ Pokai Bay. another beautiful first experience for Asayama-san. he was so stoked!

and he surfed it so good. i was amazed how he took his first wave all the way to the beach! even throwing me the peace sign. haha.

see that girl on the longboard panicking? that use to be Asayama-san last year. but now, he’s on the opposite side enjoying the ride. amazing progress.

our last wave of the day. it couldn’t have been any better.

i never surf Pokai Bay because i usually go somewhere else. but when i found out the 4 Legends were out, i wasn’t going to pass up this session. Maki-san, Takami-san, Hikaru-san, and Akemi-san are Japanese Legend Women surfers. i’ve been in the surf industry pretty long, but these girls have been there longer than me. i have the upmost respect for all of them and i’m so happy they are my friends. good to see you girls enjoying a beautiful surfing day in Hawaii.

Akemi-san always enjoying the ride…

Takami-san always enjoying the ride too…

so happy to have so many experiences with Asayama-san.

we stopped by my favorite Filipino restaurant on the way back to town.

i finally got my appetite back so i’m trying to eat healthy food for now. i feel great again!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide