Long Day Dream Trip

241

i got up at 3:45am so got a total of 4 hours sleep. had a big decision to make; outer island trip, or Pipeline Masters?

with the waves so small at Pipeline and Finals day not till tomorrow, we jumped on Mayuki at 5:30am and made the best decision of our lives. it was absolutely beautiful all day long!

i love driving across this channel because you drive right into the sunset. you can see each and every second of gold.

and when we reached to our destination, i couldn’t believe how beautiful it was!

it was Asayama-san and Nao-san’s dream to go to Molokai. so if i can be a dream maker, i will surely do my best.

it was totally breathtaking! i’ve never gone this far up the island with Mayuki so it was pretty new for me too. the ultimate power spot i’d have to say.

there where the green mountains, hidden valleys, sky-high waterfalls, big fish, whales, turtles, huge waves, and everything you could ever imagine. it would take an average person years to experience what we did in just one day.

then it was dinner time. remember all the stuff i bought for my next nabe night? well, tonight was the first. and definitely not the last.

we had no meat so we just added a fish we caught. so simple and so healthy.

and please don’t forget my enoki!!! i love it!

the story of the day had to have been Asayama-san and this fish. too long to tell and i’m so sleepy. can’t believe my eyes are still open??? good night you all! Merry Christmas!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide