you’re not going to believe how good we got the waves this morning! absolutely perfect rights with some barrels. after watching the Pipeline Masters yesterday, i had to get a few of my own. haha.
Asayama-san now on a shorter board than normal. more loose and more wild! here he is hanging on to the ride! he was surfing so good today!
and Nao-san graduated from longboard to shortboard. just like that, she was riding waves on her own. amazing progression.
and now she’s got the taste for shortboarding, she will never go on a longboard again. it’s that addicting.
my goal is to get Asayama-san riding a 6’0 comfortably. and that’s not too far away.
we had it to ourselves, then Ai-chan paddled out and got a few. then she went in and we had it to ourselves again. i can’t believe how lucky we were!
it’s crazy how these past 3 days have been. all day boat trip, all day Pipeline Masters, and now surfing perfect waves alone. that’s a dream surf trip!
and after riding shorter boards, the body gets tired and needs protein. so it was our prime rib day! can’t believe we ate it all!
speaking of food, i’m starting to miss Japan, especially after Saori-san sent me this photo from Hakata. omg, i want some!
this is my favorite!!!
when i was a teenager, i watched a movie called “Dada is Death.” it was about drug trafficking in Indonesia and the death penalty if caught. ever since, it scared the shit out of me. why would you want to try to smuggle drugs into a country with the death penalty? well, these 3 guys took the risk, and now will be getting shot by the death squad. maybe they should have watched the movie too. one of these guys that got caught is an American too. omg!
