time to clear the photos on my desktop as the new year is around the corner.
check out these photos from Nao-san. this looks like a freaking painting!!! that’s how beautiful it was that day!
i always surf where the waves are the best. and of course, not crowded. so Diamond Head wasn’t the choice.
there’s no way i’d paddle out to something like this when i know there is a much better wave with way less people around the corner.
for example, Sandy Beach. head high and 8 guys out.
but around that corner was even better. scored!
Asayama-san taking a photo of Molokai. yeah, great memories!
Christmas is over, but the Aloha spirit continues.
Christmas lights makes me happy.
Christmas dinner at the Moniz house.
so cool to see the kids happiness when they open presents. Noah looking stoked!
and the food is always amazing.
Mateus couldn’t wait to open his.
Christmas is for kids. little and big kids.
i love my family. and Christmas makes me appreciate them even more.
last night Seth told me he’d teach me how to foil board. he kept his promise and we met early this morning along with my private driver. from total excitement, to full fear, to no confidence, to almost chopping my head off, it was pretty fun. we had a blast foiling into some amazing waves!
