Surfing Hawaii: Another Day, Another Adventure…

312

from what i’ve been told, foil surfing is very difficult, and very dangerous. that’s why i was so tempted to try it.

i got up on my first wave! it was such an adrenaline rush! i felt like i was flying!

then i looked down and fell straight on my face!

luckily the foil missed my head by inches.

i never give up so i took off on another one. this time, the board took off like a rocket! i went flying!!!

Seth was filming me and then the board turned to him and almost hit him!

poise and confidence. you need to have both to do this difficult sport. Seth has both now after getting staples in his head on the first day he tried it. he was my teacher and i was his student. and he did an excellent job teaching me.

and usually i don’t listen to kids. but today, i did and here is the result! freaking pure stoke! it was the craziest feeling i experienced in a very long time. one of these toys costs $2,500 so might have to wait till next years Christmas to get mine. haha.

thank you Seth for taking care of your old Uncle. as a kid, i’m sorry for making you swim with sharks when you didn’t want to. i’m sorry for making you dive down 60′ when you didn’t want to. i’m sorry for tricking you and taking you out to Pipeline when you didn’t want to. i have much more respect for you as a man now. a fine man with patience, experience, and confidence. so proud of you!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide