yesterday as Ozaki-san rides the longest wave of the day.
totally perfect stance. bend your knees and look forward! then you will never fall!
and you will also have the rides of your life.
Ai-san smiling the whole ride long.
and smiling the whole paddle back out.
i still can’t believe we surfed for over 3 hours and if i didn’t say we should go in, we might still be surfing now. haha.
thank you both for all the positive energy! i had a hard time keeping up. haha. keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
my brother was trying to catch this huge samoan crab right off my sisters back yard. then my sister took a video and posted it to instagram. within 2 minutes, some hunters showed up. yeah, that freaking fast! that’s why i don’t like social media. i actually scolded my sister for that. haha.
