after our 3.5 hour marathon surf session, we went to eat some hot oxtail soup. needed to power back up!
eating oxtail with ginger is the best. it’s so good that you wouldn’t believe how much ginger you actually eat.
glad Kobayashi-san enjoyed his first Hawaii oxtail experience.
after we finished eating practically all the ginger, i was going to say “shoganai.” but i decided not too because i didn’t want Kobayashi-san to laugh and choke on his food. haha.
Kobayashi-san wanted to see a real surfboard factory so that’s where i took him. from the start, to the finish, this is where it all happens.
i stood in this room for 10 minutes and i started to feel super high! the resin smell is so strong.
then went to the airbrush room and seen the lovely Jeannie Chesser at work. the best surfboard artist on the island.
i just love this woman! surfing is her life, nothing else matters. that’s probably why we get along so well. haha.
and since surfboard factories throw away the fiberglass scraps, this is how i get my materials for ding repair.
Kobayashi-san got his too. and it’s for free!
did you hear about pro surfer Dusty Payne getting hurt this morning at Backdoor? he hit his head and knocked out underwater. he was lifeless then brought back to life by fellow surfers.
now he’s in the hospital recovering. such a lucky guy people were watching out for him. unfortunately, another surfer drowned right up the beach at Rocky Point. that guy wasn’t so lucky. everybody please be safe, and everybody please watch out for one another…
