opps, i forgot to post this before i left on my trip. here it is!
took some special guests to the best spot for us today. and since the winds were calm, we went to find a perfect spot to ourselves.
jumped in and was greeted by a huge turtle. cool.
and we got exactly what we looked for. parked Mayuki and had the most amazing 3 hour surf session all to ourselves. score!
the U.S. State Department just put out a new travel advisory for Mexico. seems like all the killings, kidnappings, drugs, and violence is taking a toll. it’s not as bad as you think, but it’s not getting any better at the same time.
since i’m going to jump on an airplane next week and go somewhere, i thought i’d post the rest of our Taiwan photos. everybody asks me how the waves are? i tell them “freaking good, uncrowded, and like paradise!” here is Aoi surfing a perfect left that resembles Uluwatu.
Matsu got some really good waves too. just so calm and smooth.
every single wave, Aoi was looking for a barrel.
and on every single wave, he was finding it.
and when he couldn’t find one, he’d just come out and do an amazing off the top.
and guess who got the wave of the day? yes, KIMURA-SAN! check him out riding this super long barrel as Aoi and i watch from the channel. after seeing these photos, don’t be surprised if i’m in Taiwan next week. haha.
