this morning was an amazing show from Mother Nature. we pulled up to the North Shore and the waves were offshore and perfect. as we were getting ready to paddle out, the storm approached, heavy lighting bolts hitting the ocean, and super onshore winds. what??? we played the waiting game because it’s days like this you can either score, or get skunked…
it was onshore and the 30 surfers that were out earlier came in. that’s when we paddled out. raining but the rainbow kept us positive.
even this baby turtle was thinking “what are you crazy guys doing out here?”
20 minutes later, the sun peaked out, and the winds started to shift. it was then i knew we were going to score!
it was only Sanga-san, myself, and 2 other lucky surfers that were in the perfect place at the perfect time. the waves started to barrel and was pretty dam perfect. i’ve never surfed perfect Laniakea with only 3 other guys in my whole entire life…
Sanga-san came to Hawaii this time for the first time ever. and his first surf Hawaiian wave was at Laniakea on the North Shore. i can’t believe how lucky he is!!! after our 2.5 hour session, 30 guys paddled out. great timing as we were burnt out and went in.
checked out Pipeline, Sunset Beach, and ate a healthy pastrami sandwich at Sprout. so happy to meet this cool couple from Nagoya. thank you Senga-san and Misa-san for the wonderful day on the North Shore!
i love pastrami! try one at Sprout!
then got some snow puffs on the way back.
passed by Diamond Head and was thinking about foiling this evening. but once i got home, i was too tired to do anything.
the Coast Guard called off the search for the missing Quiksilver CEO. this is very shocking news for all fishermen.
now the mystery is how he fell off his boat? or where he is? or what happened? i hope there are answers soon…
