New Survivor

230

rewind back to yesterday. Senga-san wanted to surf the North Shore because somebody in Japan told him to. come to find out, it was Kobayashi-san from Selection Surf. haha. what a small world!

and lucky we did because that was an amazing day.

surfing in the storm. rain in the eyes but still focused on riding down the line. i like this bottom turn!

and when you get a head high thick barreling wave on the head, it will make you a stronger surfer. i call this the “welcome to Hawaii wave!” haha.

by the end of the session, there were no nerves and only good long rides. such a good surfer!

and i’m pretty sure Sengo-san doesn’t know how lucky he was. probably nobody would believe him either. haha.

i got a couple barrels and that made my day.

good job surfer dude! i’m super stoked for you!

rewind back to last week. i was super happy watching Maki-san transform into a hunter. she is trying really hard and i’m seeing some amazing results.

as for me, i’m just taking only what i need. once that’s done, i’m done.

i came back to take a look what Maki-san caught. omg, a nice size menpachi!!!

Maki-san ended up spearing 3 menpachi on this trip. that’s more fish then i speared! i was so happy for her! now we have a new survivor and once you can hunt your own food, you’re one step ahead of the rest. congratulations girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide