if you’re a fisherman, this is like the dream catch. just enough for a few great meals. then when you want to eat fish again, you just go back into natures refrigerator and take what you need. if everybody hunted like this, our island would still have a lot of fish. but unfortunately, that’s not the case…
this morning was crazy! i checked DH early morning and it was junky. then went to pick up Terada-san and came back. only 2 surfers out and i could feel the wind switching.
we paddle out, the 2 guys went in, and the winds turned off shore! omg, we were so lucky to have the entire DH to ourselves! Terada-san could choose and go on any wave he wanted too. this was one of them.
the weather was crazy weird. look to the mountains!
i’ve never seen anything like this before. white lines over the mountains one minute, and gone the next.
after a couple hours, we paddled in and then it got really crowded. score!
watched Joshua Moniz surf his heat at the Volcom Pro. he advanced into Round 5!
Tony and i foiled until pitch dark yesterday. and if the sun didn’t go down, we would have surfed until midnight. it reminds me of the days we use to surf 20′ outer reefs and paddle in at pitch dark. we’re like 2 kids again!!! haha!!!
i don’t care how good of a surfer you are. if you want to foil, it’s like learning how to surf all over again. but the only difference is it’s 100x more dangerous. it’s the freakiest feeling ever. once i get better at it, i will start to teach people how to do it. but you must have medical insurance and be prepared to go to the emergency room at least once…
