Terada-san is from Toyama so coming from such a cold place must feel great.
he was wondering where all the surfers were? so was i. haha. we had it to ourselves!
all surfers from Bouz Surf Shop in Toyama have the best style. in Japanese, we say “kakkoii” which means “cool!” want to take this time to say hello to Junko-san! hope to surf with you guys again soon!
when the waves are shoulder high, clean, and good, you will never see a photo like this with nobody around. especially at DH.
usually i don’t catch a lot of waves, but i couldn’t let perfect ones go by.
some warm pho and an afternoon nap. thank you Terada-san!
more photos from the girls. boat trip lunch time. fresh sandwiches!
boat trip dinner time. hot nabe.
i just love this photo. 2 girls having the time of their lives. no phones, no reception, no people, and no bullshit. it was just us and Mother Nature. this is the kind of way i like to spend with friends.
i think we started our beer and pupu time at 3pm? i never ever drink a beer that early in the afternoon. but on this occasion, why not right? haha.
