i go surfing with Takahashi-san this morning and he asked me “why isn’t there anyone out????” i told him “i don’t know???” felt weird to be in the ocean yesterday evening and this morning with nobody else out. and of course, the waves were clean and fun!
glassy conditions and golden sunrise.
i caught 5 waves and felt like i did a 2 hour workout in the gym. this foil board is getting me into the best shape i’ve been in years. anyway, thank you Takahashi-san for the wonderful time in Hawaii. have a safe flight home and tell all our Okinawan friends i said “haisai!”
i took a drive by Diamond Head because i knew it was the perfect day for the foil. and yes it was! my hair was still wet from Bowls as i got ready for another amazing session.
i finally learned how to get the foil up to the perfect height. i’m 3′ or 1 meter above the water surfing in the air. the closest thing i can compare the feeling to is snowboarding in the deepest powder snow. it’s freaking amazing! i ended up foiling 4 hours this morning.
then went up to Nuuanu to check out the house my Grandpa Osaki built back in the 1940’s. he built this whole house by himself and i remember spending so much time up there. felt good to feel my Grandpa again.
was driving home and seen a car on the freeway? i knew it was a surfer because of the board bag, then i looked at the driver from behind and thought “i know that guy!” turns out to be Hayato Maki! haha. i swear this world is way too small…
then went for round 3. Boot Camp day 2 and Fukuda-san surfing way better!
i was riding behind watching him on this very long ride!
i caught a few waves but got bored because my board wouldn’t lift out of the water. haha.
stayed out till sunset. another amazing full day playing in the ocean. good night.
