started the day off early morning with Maeda-san. waves so smooth, and waves so good!
Maeda-san probably caught about 30 waves this morning. surfing all of them really good.
18 surfers out today which is normal. the past 2 days with nobody out was lucky i guess? haha.
Shena surfing with super style.
after 3 hours, i ask Maeda-san “aren’t you tired?” he said “no.” so we ended up surfing another hour.
and perfect timing as Hayato paddled out with his cute little daughter.
i was surprised to see Lilika-chan surfing so good! omg, she’s the cutest 6 year old girl ever!
it makes me really happy to ride along a friends daughter watching the most pure smile.
4 hour session and 30 waves ridden. great job Maeda-san!
first taste of Hawaii, and first taste of Poke.
yes, this is local food.
then went to get some strawberry shave ice. sweet…
then we went sightseeing. Maeda-san’s first time to Hawaii so when we went to the East side, he kept on saying “omg, deep blue!!!” yeah, the deepest blue ocean you will ever see with whales jumping everywhere.
then we went to Diamond Head. i was watching so many unridden waves so i was foil surfing in my mind. haha.
seen the whales right outside of the surfers. so cool! dropped Maeda-san off after a long happy day. then called my foil buddy and met up at Diamond Head.
i surfed for 2 more hours with Tony Moniz. talking about Joshua’s win, enjoying the foiling, and surfed until dark again. we’re like 2 kids that just got their new toy. and i can’t believe i spent over 6 hours in the ocean today! haha.
