i call up Tony and say “hey, Diamond Head is looking good.” he says “ok, i’ll meet you there.” that easy, and that fast. just like the old days. now Tony is on a shortboard feeling the sensation.
and like always, Tony is riding in front of everybody. haha. when ever Tony paddles out, i tell all my friends “hey, please stay out of his way because he will run you straight over. i’ve seen it many of times.”
Edmond’s been texting me where the best foil spot are, and we’ve been keeping in touch. this man is a retired legend Hawaiian Lifeguard. saved thousands of lives throughout all these years. stoked to have him as a new foil buddy. if something goes wrong, i know he’ll save my life…
now we have a new little foil surfing group. we’re like 3 little kids cheering each other on. it is so funny…
Tony surfing into the sunset.
i’m at a very happy point in my life now. thanks to my new hobby, and thanks to mother nature…
learning how to foil is teaching me something new. it teaches me to have more patience, how to keep calm, and how to connect more with the ocean.
and now i can finally do some round house cutbacks. i can feel the foil speed doubling and it feels fantastic! i can’t wait to go faster!
after i came home, i was thinking about ordering another foil board already. haha. slow down Kirby…
