another very long exciting day! started off early this morning with a sunrise surf with Ono-san.
i can’t even count how many sunrises and sunsets i’ve seen so far this year. the most beautiful time of the day.
Ono-san was catching so many waves and riding them all the way in. very good surfing from the 2017 TSSC Users Cup Women’s Champion!
only surfing for 3 years and won a contest already? amazing!
after about 30 waves and 4 hours in the water, it was time to go in. such an incredible surf session.
happy, hungry, sleepy, and satisfied!
yes, hot pho to make us very happy and sleepy. haha.
took a ride to the East side again and checked out the Deep Aoi! whales jumping again and absolutely gorgeous!
then ate some Pipeline malasadas, then some cool tapioca milk tea.
look how picture perfect Sandy Beach was! omg, this could be a postcard!
checked out Diamond Head on the way back to Waikiki. Ono-san told me “good waves, good food, nice nap, this is saiko!” haha. thank you for the wonderful day. wish you the best at this years TSSC Cup!
when we were at Diamond Head, i seen Seth Moniz checking out the waves. he and all the boys were looking for the best foiling spot today. i told him, i’ll see you out there. haha.
this was our session: Seth Moniz, Joshua Moniz, Tony Moniz, Ezekiel Lau, Finn McGill, Kaito Kino, Benji Brand, and a couple more. this was way more fun than surfing Pipeline. and way more harder. haha.
i surfed this morning for 4 hours, and foiled this afternoon for 3 hours. i haven’t spent this much time in the water enjoying myself like this. i loved my life before a lot, but i love it even more now….
i was carrying my foil up the mountain and my finger just rubbed gently against it. sliced it very easily. all the boys know the dangers in foiling, and i guess that’s why they love it so much. one of the boys said “this is way more dangerous than surfing Pipeline.” i agree…
