everybody’s been asking me where i surfed the 2nd big day of typhoon 9. well, that’s a secret. all i can say is that it was “abunai” or dangerous! imagine taking off on a 15′ face, bottom turn, the wave sucks up, the reef pops out, you grab rail, your in the barrel watching the dry reef in front of you, you hold on for your life, somehow you make it out only to come face to face with “Mr. Pole.”
i’ve been checking this spot for the past 12 years. i go, no waves. i go, onshore. i go, junk. all the locals would tell me that this wave is like G-Land. i never believed until 2 weeks ago. i got it really good and i can’t wait to go back again. will it be another 12 years? if so, i’ll wait.
once again, thank you to all the locals who shared their waves with me. local surfers rule!
for a few weeks in the deserted oshika hanto, they were cut off from society. no electricity, no water, no food, no doctors, and no roads. somebody wrote this message for help in one of the vacant parking lots. it says “HELP, SOMEBODY’S GIVING BIRTH!” when i see things like this all around the tohoku area, it makes me sad. did that person get help? did that baby make it into this world? these are unanswered questions i’ll have to live with for the rest of my life.
