How he Survived the Tsunami

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on M4, we talked to a local fisherman that told us his story.
on march 11th, he felt the earthquake but this one was much different than the others. yes, the ground shook the same, the warnings went off the same, and it was just a typical big earthquake. but when he looked out to the left of the harbor and seen the birds acting really strange moving like he never saw in his whole entire life, he knew this something was wrong. he said that he looked out at the birds 365 days of the year for his whole life but march 11th was different. he knew something was coming so he ran up to his house, got his family up on the hill, went back down to the harbor, jumped into his boat, and stayed out to sea for the next 3 days in the cold snowy weather. this is just one of the many success stories. some people act by following other people, this man followed his personal nature instinct.

i surfed with kazuko-san a few years ago in hawaii. then she called me from guam the other day saying “i have your friend standing near me.” who? it was fred mendiola. fred and i go way back to surfing and working together in the 80’s. some awesome memories both in and out of the water. fred was always humble, soft spoken, and really cool. it was good talking to him and hopefully someday we can surf together again. in guam? hawaii? japan? indo? who cares, surfing is surfing! good talking to you fred, and thank you kazuko for hooking us up again. aloha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide