been getting foil reports from all over the island. for me, i want to surf the biggest wave with nobody around. that’s my goal. so if i pass by somewhere and see a wave breaking outside, i park the truck and get ready for the ride of my life…
nobody out so nobody in the way. i can focus on my line and the turn i want to do. once i take off and do a bottom turn, i’m flying down the line so fast that i can hardly control myself. the key is to keep calm…
and with all that speed, i start to do my full round house cutback. it’s such a adrenaline rush because now i’m going 2x faster and holding on for my dear life. i’d say it’s 3x the speed of doing the same cutback on a regular shortboard. so imagine that feeling!
been surfing with friends until the sun sets. coming in at dark, eating dinner, and sleeping early like a baby.
thought i’d sip on some chilled Don Julio 1942 to celebrate an amazing day.
then Maki-san sends me this photo of a small Don Julio bottle she found. so cute!
then Kimura-san sends me a photo of his finished collection of Jack Daniels. i was laughing when i saw this. imaging if Kimura-san started to foil? he would have 30 foil boards. haha.
