super cool watching this kid rip Bowls yesterday morning.
and super cool watching Nao-san ripping Diamond Head yesterday evening.
we pulled up to Bowls in the afternoon and looked at the waves. it was looking pretty good. so i ask Nao-san “want to surf here? or want to surf Diamond Head. Diamond Head will be more challenging and way more beautiful.” she said, Diamond Head. and now she knows what i meant by way more beautiful. look at this amazing photo!
Nao-san ended up catching over 20 waves. all perfect long rides and now i think she likes Diamond Head. BUT i told her “it’s not always like this. today was special.”
cool surfing with the turtles.
i forgot to put my foil in the car in the morning. so watching the boys foiling in the evening kind of made me jealous. Edmond told me “where’s your foil!” i told him “there are a lot of happy local surfers out here because i forgot my foil.” haha. everybody was asking me “where’s your foil” with a big smile.
Carter flew by me a few times. i wanted to ask him if i could try his board but i already knew he would say no. haha. and i didn’t want to interrupt his freedom and excitement. so yeah, i was a little jealous today boys!
