Broken Body…

265

good morning. gosh, i had a funny feeling that my body was going to crash sometime soon. and that sometime was yesterday when i got up at 5am. i felt my body ache like never before, my throat sore, my headache, and dizzy spells. i get sick once a year and i hope this is it. i don’t ever want to feel like how i felt yesterday and am feeling now. being sick sucks…. so just wanted to say sorry to the people i met in shikoku yesterday at the barrels contest. no, i’m not a bitch. i was just feeling shitty. i took some pretty cool photos of the finals and it should be up online soon. have a safe drive back to osaka.
mahalo…

get this story. were were on an outer island a few weeks ago for a surf trip. we scored good waves so started drinking beers in the evening. then went to eat dinner and busted out the bottle of jack. got super ripped, came back to our minshiku for another drinking session at 12pm. this time, awamori. it was almost 1am and i had enough. i was checking out this pitcher of water for a while and wanted to drink it badly. but i knew that if everybody seen me, they would know i’m finished and make me another drink of awamori. so sneaky me grabbed a glass when nobody was looking, poured my glass full of the water, and drank it like i haven’t drank water in years. after i drank the whole thing, i felt something was weird. everybody was laughing at me because that pitcher of water was full of pure awamori sake. oh my gosh!!! went to bed spinning right after. pretty funny memory….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide