Local Makan and Empty Holes…

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stopped by this local restaurant to eat some breakfast. this is the part of traveling i love. try local, and eat local!

just go up to the window and point to what you want.

our driver Eco is the craziest driver i know. and when he puts on his police siren, everybody moves. haha.

Matsu is my roommate so we spend each minute together. he’s one of the only guys that can be with me for that long. what a patient man… haha.

long rice noodle chicken soup. omg, so good. our breakfast for 4 cost $8. it was amazing!

i had no idea what kind of waves i’d be surfing on this trip. maybe that’s why everyday seems like magic? i haven’t seen this many empty barrels in my whole life. good thing i came to fill some of these holes up! anyway, forgot my card reader so will upload the photos when i get back to Hawaii. for now, i’m staying off this computer and enjoying the barrels here! see ya.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide