i learned a lot on this trip. i leaned that foiling isn’t the best to do in Indonesia. first, it’s too powerful. the wave has too much power hitting the reef so it makes the foil lift much faster. second, it’s too steep. the waves break in shallow water so it jacks up making the drops to steep for the foil. and last, it’s way to shallow. almost every spot is too shallow to foil. i looked everywhere on this trip and couldn’t find a deep enough spot. would i bring my foil here again? most likely not.
knowing all that, i still tried. went to this point break, put on the foil, and walked out over the sharp reef. getting out was a huge challenge dodging the reef and waves at the same time.
like i said, the wave is too steep and powerful. i tried my best, fell a few times, and almost killed myself. this is not how you want to fall. right after this, the foil ran me over and luckily didn’t cut me like a knife. no hospitals around for hours…
but this guy never gives up. i foiled 2 waves, and had pretty bad wipeouts on 3 waves. that was enough for me to take my foil apart and put it back in my board bag. Indo is too dangerous and if i get hurt in these remote areas, i’m pretty much done. the cool thing is that i’m probably the first guy ever to foil South Sumatra because nobody down here seen it before. thank you Takami-san for sitting on the hot beach taking these photos.
breathtaking sunsets… i’d have to say this trip was one of the best of my life. i didn’t know the waves got this big over here. i had the big wave super session yesterday that i’ll never forget…
the fun is over. heading back home….
