A Magic Wave will Change your Life…

268

in Sumatra, the economy thrives on coconuts. everywhere you go, you will see a coconut tree and fresh coconuts. at 70 cents, you can have one right away. compare that to $5 for an old coconut in Hawaii.

i love to see women handling a knife like this. her boyfriend better not cheat on her…

gosh, the Indonesians have the most beautiful smiles! totally pure!

i wish i could have one each day of the year.

Matsu saw a man with the most fascinating motorcycle.

i love it!

want to thank Chifumi-san for sending me these next photos. Sumatra boat trip!

i was either surfing in the pitch dark early mornings, or the pitch dark late evenings. or both.

most spots we surfed at were breaking right outside of dry reef. if you go straight, you will go straight to the hospital that is many hours away…

look at this monkey eating a fried banana.

after a great surf session, it was a great lunch session. this local restaurant was amazing…

before we left on this trip, Chifumi-san asked me for advise because it was her very first surf trip. i told her “get up early and surf when and where i surf. if you do that, you will guarantee catch the best wave or waves of your life. nobody will be around and you will score. when i say go, you better freaking go! and when this trip is over, you’re life will never be the same…”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide