Kissed by God

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if you surf in Hawaii, you probably heard the controversy about surfers vs. foilers. i heard about fights on the North Shore, i heard about all the complaining on social media, and i can just tell by the look on surfers faces when we foil. most surfers don’t like it, but it’s us surfers that’s doing it. i’ve been getting calls from newborn foilers in Hawaii and these guys aren’t just normal guys. these guys are Hawaiians and some of the most respected surfers on the island. i can’t see anyone telling them where they can foil. so for now, people just have to get use to it. foiling is here to stay for now. check out Tony and I enjoying our ultimate ride. many more to come this summer…

took this photo of Tony @ DH and glad to see it being used the right way.

i was in Downtown Honolulu and passed by the Hawaii Theatre.

come May 6, 2018, the documentary about World Champion Andy Irons death will be showed. i think any aspiring surfer or any person that’s growing up into fame should see. i’m sure there won’t be a dry eye anywhere near. so sad, but we must all know the effects of money, fame, and drugs…

it’s called Andy Irons “Kissed by God.”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide