had an amazing day. started off this morning with Ueda-san. super cool surfer from Kobe. i just love his surfing style!
and Mayumi-san also surfing so good. was happy for them to ride their longest waves ever.
we started off in the inside with knee high waves, and ended up on the outside with shoulder high sets. huge step up.
Mayumi-san caught her last wave so far that no way she wanted to paddle back out 200 meters. so we went in.
my friend Ronnie is the water patrol. he makes sure nobody goes near the contest that was on at Bowls today. we were talking story and he actually pushed Mayumi-san into a big set. i was so stoked to see locals giving a loving hand!
such a wonderful time with this beautiful couple. 2 more days of Boot Camp to follow.
after a hot pho, it was nap time. but for me, i had 2 more rounds of surfing to go.
more photos from my Molokai trip. this is the local style. hunt for food in the day, and share it in the night. everybody is welcome and everybody gets fed. that’s called “Aloha Spirit.”
and nothing goes to waste. everything that is hunted, is eaten.
then the morning after…
Local News Time: a van pulls up to a 16 year old girl in Hawaii Kai at 2pm while she is jogging. he puts a gun to her head and makes her get into the van. he rapes her, then she runs away and calls the police. the police look for the van and suspect for 2 days, can’t find him, and give up. are you freaking serious? so there is a rapist on the streets targeting young girls now. that’s crazy!
