another day of 3 rounds. first starting off with Rie-san on Boot Camp Day 2. smooth rides and perfect style.
this girl use to be a long boarder but i’m sure those days are over. once you downsize, it’s hard to go back up.
smile number 15 of 100 smiles today. it was an amazing day…
Ueda-san and Mayumi-san on Day 2 Boot Camp too. yesterday was really cold but today was really warm.
so fun watching Ueda-san enjoying the ride. we sit on the outside and catch sets so every drop is exciting.
Mayumi-san taking off on some big sets too. and making them all!
look how beautiful surfing is! i just love riding on the side and watching people surf like this.
and of course i’m yelling “look forward!”
by the end of the day, Ueda-san was catching set after set on his own. new South swell arrived this evening so Day 3 is going to be interesting.
Eri-chan took this photo of us checking out this super good beach break. in all the 25 years i went to Indonesia, i never even knew beach breaks existed.
Matsu and Eri-chan enjoying the bird house. photo by Takami-san.
in the middle of the jungle, there was this and only this one cool coffee shop. we went to check it out. i’m sure this is the start of a surfing boom economy that’s coming soon.
i can sit on the beach all day long and watch wave after wave. watching the currents, swells, winds, and sandbar changing every minute. this really makes me respect the ocean.
