surfed with Takeda-san this morning for another day of Boot Camp. super good results!
and when you can relax and enjoy the ride like this, everything is going well.
i watched him get wave after wave after wave.
then when Takeda-san couldn’t paddle anymore, we went in and ate a hot bowl of pho. Takeda-san took a nap, and i had other plans…
went to pick up Park-san and had some long amazing rides.
good to be on a longboard just flowing with the ocean.
more photos from Matsu. this time, from Indonesia. we stopped here for a nice breakfast after surfing big barreling lefts.
the local food is amazing. i think we were the first tourists ever to set foot in this restaurant. and omg, it was delicious.
back at our resort, the smoothies were so sweet and refreshing.
and the resort food was like eating at a 5 star restaurant.
but i prefer local style! healthy, spicy, and so good. thank you Matsu for the photos.
“To be old and wise, you must have to be young and stupid.” all the stupid things i did when i was young made me into the old and wiser man i am now. sometimes i still do stupid things, so that must mean i’m getting even wiser… haha.
