saw this photo on the web and thought it was crazy! and after yesterday’s accident with my board, me, and the Japanese guy, i thought it would be a good time to talk about surfing mannerism in Hawaii.
1. if you’re a beginner, stay away from main surf points like Bowls. on small days, it’s ok. but when it gets bigger, the current is stronger and pulls you into the main peak. and in that main peak are hungry and some angry locals. it’s just a matter of time you will be in the wrong place at the wrong time so better to stay away. go surf Waikiki or somewhere safer. if that Japanese guy did what he did to me to one of the angry locals that was out, he would have gotten punched out for sure. i even told him that. Bowls is a high performance wave that isn’t made to go straight.
2. if you don’t know, don’t go. don’t just read a Hawaii Surf Guide book and follow the instructions. every single day is a different game out there. different waves, swell direction, winds, and people.
3. always respect locals. you wouldn’t want anyone coming to your house and disrespecting you right? so simply respect locals. and even if you lived here for 30 years, you still aren’t as local as the guy born and raised here. you’re still a foreigner. that goes for everywhere in the world.
4. best way is to hire a local surf guide. then if something happens, it’s all his fault. haha. just kidding. but i tell all my friends, if you go to another country and surf, hire a LOCAL surf guide. then you will get better waves which leads to a better experience. surf your dream guys!
