Bad Medicine, Good Medicine….

254

good evening. wanted to thank everyone for their concern. it feels pretty comforting getting sympathy emails from people i don’t even know. and encouraging to hear that my blog makes them want to live a happy life. i just got back home and it didn’t feel the same when i stepped off the airplane. mixed emotions i guess. i’ll just leave it at that….. but thanks again for your concern because it really helps….

bad medicine: i’m still trying to fight off this cold. been taking tylenol for the past 3 days and been feeling like shit. all the chemicals making me feel dizzy and drugged out. i forgot to lock the club house in shikoku one day. and when i stayed in a osaka hotel last night, i woke up in the morning looking for my key. i ended up finding it hanging in the key hole outside of my room. that’s just not me. i’m lucky it was japan. anywhere else, i would have been robbed silly…

good medicine: i jumped in the water today. as soon as i put my head under the water, my cold was gone. i felt fresh and clean. found a golden nugget 4′ barrel at big rights which made it all that better. it’s amazing how the ocean heals. totally amazing….
**as for the waves, heard the past 2 days were really good on the south shore. a couple guys told me that i missed it. guys, i didn’t miss anything. today was 4′ and super good for me. it felt good to be back in the water. got a lot of things going on this week so better go to sleep. goodnight…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide