the waves were so big today! Bowls was breaking outside by the red buoy. only had one guy surfing Rock Piles left so that’s where we went. Asayama-san taking some huge drops!
once in a while a huge double overhead obake set would smash us all the way in. but we never gave up and kept on going back out.
Asayama-san told me “the waves are so hollow today!” i told him “yeah, once it gets overhead out there, all the waves are hollow.
little bit more and Asayama-san could have gotten barreled! tomorrow we shall try again.
last wave of our amazing morning session.
when the waves are knee to chest high, there are 30 surfers out. some taking all the waves, some dropping in, and some very stuck up. but when the waves get huge like today, only the men come out to ride the mountains. Asayama-san was on of the few men out today.
by far, today was the biggest waves of this young mans life. i’m so proud of him!
then went for some healthy chicken rice in China Town.
gosh, i love this very inexpensive meal. fills me up with happiness.
and the sesame balls for dessert. the happy ending.
then to Kailua to the Chocolate Factory called Manoa. the chocolate tea is the best!
then came back to town went for another secret spot session. Asayama-san wanted to surf different spots on this trip. we already surfed 3 spots and he just came yesterday. where next?
