been seeing some crazy things now days. there is absolutely no surfing mannerism in the water anymore. people just dropping in on everybody, people not looking, and people acting like assholes. i see people getting hurt all the time, and i see so many close call situations. most of them can be avoided. how? just look around. if your a car driver and just look down your lane, someday, you will get hit from the side. you have to look around, examine the situation, and go from there. it takes time to get use to this, but this is the key for surfing safety.
take this photo for example. here is a guy coming to hawaii trying to get a barrel of his life. he finally gets a perfect backdoor wave, takes off, bottom turns, and pulls into the barrel. then the surfer on the left side didn’t look, took off, and turned a dream situation into a nightmare. the poor guy in the barrel got pounded, hit the reef, and broke his surfboard.
surfing is a dangerous sport. if you go surfing without evaluating situations, you will get hurt. try to look around, try to imagine what other surfers around you will do, and once you get your own wave with the line you want to take, go for it!
surf safe and see you in the water.
