Asayama-san Boot Camp day 3. waves were super good at Ala Moana today so we went out. still had some big sets but way smaller than the past 2 days. it was very easy for us as you can see perfect riding on this nice waves.
being that the waves got smaller, all the small wave surfers came flocking back. nobody would ever paddle for waves the other day, but now, people were trying to take Asayama-san’s wave.
i always tell Asayama-san, “when i say go, you go!” so he went! the other guy shouldn’t have gone because you can’t just show up on the small days and make big attitude surfer. that doesn’t work with me.
so cool to see Eri-chan charging too! so cool to take this girl surfing 5 years ago, listen to her dream of living in Hawaii, and now that dream is true. i love to hear success stories like hers.
big confidence equals big surf. simple…
thank you Asayama-san for sending inspiration to all your fans! did you know that you were the oldest surfer in the water at Ala Moana on those big days? nobody even close to your age can handle powerful waves like that. so proud of you!
and thank you also for the sweets!
after surf, warm up with super pho!
eat it all, then think about going back to bed for a nap.
not me, i went straight back out! waves still super good and super long rides.
surfed with Imai-san and had a great time. i’m not sure if he came for my Boot Camp, but it turned into a Boot Camp afternoon. haha.
