after the past 3 days of big wave surfing, today was a piece of cake. so easy and so relaxed at i watched Asayama-san ride the best waves of his life.
we went out to the main peak at Bowls and caught the sets. Asayama-san surfed amazingly!
look at this beautiful wave!
i still can’t believe this man is 69 years old. it blows my mind…
then while we were waiting one the outside, a super nice set lined up, then Asayama-san rode the longest and best left of his life! i couldn’t believe how perfectly he rode it till the end.
he paddled back out and said “that was the best wave of my life.” the biggest smile i’ve ever seen out of him before.
then we caught one more and called it a day. a beautiful day.
if the people i surf with are stoked, so am i. i had a wonderful session too!
Maki-san was out this morning so we all went to lunch together. filled our stomachs up with protein. then we started talking about the famous Jeannie Chesser.
then went to the North Shore to visit the legend doing what she does best, Airbrush! good surfing Asayama-san, and amazing airbrush Jeannie! see you guys in the water tomorrow for more waves of our lifetime!
