this swell was the biggest of the year. solid double overhead sets with so much power. i hardly have to throw my board and dive under waves in town, but this swell i had to a lot. and since i taught Asayama-san how to do it, i thought he could teach you how to do it too. look how he throws his board to the side and dives under the power spot of the wave.
then he angles his body to go with the flow of the wave passing by over him. this is how you want to keep your arms just in case you get close to the reef. and just in case you see an abalone and want to grab it. haha.
then keep your body straight like this and let the flow pull you right up to the surface. the key is to keep relaxed like this and let the ocean do everything for you. good job Asayama-san! i was so happy to see you dive under those huge waves this week!
going to the North Shore to watch the magical art work by Jeannie Chesser.
and since Asayama-san hasn’t been in a surfboard factory before, i took him to the front line.
i drank a large cup of matcha tea latte yesterday and after i finished it, i felt so high i could have flown to the moon. the ultimate caffeine buzz that kept my body shaking and i was even sweating in the cool car. haha. i better stop drinking these.
Boot Camp continues as this man is becoming even more super than he already is. i think it’s time to get him on the foil! haha.
