good morning. still got some waves in town. looks solid 3′ with perfect conditions. another south swell on the way. typhoon hitting japan. waves everywhere. enjoy….
everybody’s been saying that my eye is getting worse. i went to visit my eye doctor yesterday and he told me that it’s time for pterygium surgery. dr. jorge camara is the one of the best eye surgeons in the world and i’m going to leave my eye up to him. so instead of chasing typhoons in japan or the philippines in october like i was planning to, i’m going to come back and get my eye fixed. i was thinking about which is more important. getting perfect barrels? or my eye? to tell you the truth, until today, barrels were. stupid yeah? that’s the surfer in me. i was planning to push it back to march so i can surf the north shore early season but forget that too. first things first. my health is more important than surfing. i just found that out. i guess i’m finally growing up….
**this clip might make you throw up but that’s my doctor performing the same surgery i will need. yikes…. can somebody please hold my hand???
