so stoked to be surfing with my friends. paddled out with Asayama-san, Maki-san, and Carter this morning for our Bowls session. it was awesome!
yes, the fish are still in the inside. so cool.
today, we went to the main peak again and our goal was to catch the biggest waves possible. every drop was super steep but Asayama-san made it all!
it’s crazy how far this man has come. from being scared by waist high waves, to absolute no fear on double overhead waves? that’s amazing.
i’m always watching over him. i’m making sure he paddled out the right way, i’m making sure his leash didn’t break, and i’m making sure everything is ok. so when i get the OK sign, everything is OK! good job Asayama-san!
Carter had the best off the lip of the day out there. watch this sequence.
this his how you want to smash the lip.
and this is how you want your board to come out from behind. all three fins will follow.
and this spray from his board is 8′ high. that’s power surfing!
went foiling at 12 noon, the hottest time of the day.
and spent some family time on the beach with my lovely little grand niece.
so stoked that Micah lives next door to me now. i get to enjoy the little perks of hanging out with him and the kids 5x more than before.
and we get to spend so much quality time in the ocean these days. riding swells together and sharing the moment. all little precious moments for me…
