this morning i gave Asayama-san an option. surf big and crowded Bowls, or surf big and uncrowded Old Man’s? Asayama-san liked the name so he chose Old Man’s. different color, different vibe, different wave, and different view. look at him go!
the water color out here is a lot more emerald because of the sandy bottom. so it matches the double rainbow pretty well.
the paddle out is twice as Bowls, much harder to catch a wave, way more current, so overall a much bigger challenge. but this man loves challenge and that’s what i love about him.
non-stop paddling, non-stop surfing, and non-stop fun!
this is the view i wanted to show Asayama-san. you’re really surfing right into Diamond Head.
Asayama-san was charging. just like everywhere we surf, he was the oldest man at Old Man’s.
great job again! i’m so happy you feel comfortable no matter where we surf. that’s a true surfer!
ended up our morning with a hot bowl of oxtail soup. delicious!
got my East side surf report this afternoon. she said it was too beautiful for surf today.
so i went to check big and wild Diamond Head. solid 5′, out of control, and nobody out. that’s just the way i like it!
i see my friend Barry and he says “let’s go Kirby!” i said “see you out there!”
i’ve been foiling for 6 months now, but today was the most exciting by far. i caught the biggest wave at Diamond Head, took the drop flying so fast i couldn’t see a thing. i kept my line, kept calm, and did 5 cutbacks all the way to the sandy beach. i haven’t had this ultimate feeling in a very long time. can’t wait till tomorrow…
