i have a dream job. to be able to share surfing with people is pretty cool. i know the ultimate feeling of riding a wave and when i see first time surfers enjoying themselves, it makes me happy. then when people get addicted to surfing, it makes me more happy. if you surf, you will be a better all around person. no matter what age, sex, or occupation, surfing doesn’t discriminate. i’ve seen surfing bring out the best of people. seen smiles in the ocean you won’t see on land.
coming back to my job. my job is to surf. my job is to teach surfing. my job is to get people hooked on surfing. i got hooked when i was a kid and that’s changed my life. no mater what happens, good or bad, i know that the ocean is there for me. if i didn’t have that as my escape, i would be in jail for sure. i was once a crazy kid, once a lost teenager, but now i feel like a satisfied happy man.
the reason i’m explaining my job is because everybody asks me “what’s your job?” i have many of jobs and this is just one of them, which happens to be my top priority!
surfers are connected in one way or another. it’s a tight community that can’t be broken over time. the Aida-san family is one example. it’s my first time meeting them but after surfing with them, i feel like i’ve known them for years. we have mutual friends in japan like Dave Yamaya, Okada-san from J’s Surf in Wada, and Darren Tatsuno just to name a few. yes, it’s a small world!
To the Aida-san family- i had so much fun surfing with all of you. you are a great surfer family and it was a pleasure seeing all your smiles. 8 year old Yuki-chan, you have great balance and are going to be a great surfer. i’m sure the boys in japan will be supporting you. i hope you don’t forget seeing and surfing with the 2 turtles! it was nature at it’s best! have a safe trip back to japan and enjoy your last days in hawaii! Aloha, Kirby
