good morning. waves came down on the south shore but still head high sets and looking fun. 100 guys out at the park and only 13 out at bowls. i’m out there. have a safe day…. oh, heard the waves in japan’s been pumping. can somebody send me some photos? thanks…
i found this photo kinsan sent me a couple of years ago. thank goodness i kept it on my external hard drive. this is lester falatea surfing his favorite spot “Pipeline.” at age 37, lester was way to young to pass away. i’m going to miss the aloha and kindness he spread in the most intimidating lineup in the world. “bruddah les, when i catch my first wave at pipeline this winter, it’s going to be for you”….
**THE MEMORIAL PADDLE OUT WILL BE AT PIPELINE TOMORROW. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH AT 6AM. BRING FLOWERS AND YOUR SURFBOARD AND JOIN EVERYBODY IN SAYING GOODBYE TO ONE OF THE COOLEST SURFERS ON EARTH”….