i asked Asayama-san in the morning, “do you want to go surf Bowls with 20 long boarders? or go surf a secret spot to ourselves?” he said “i want FREEDOM!” and i knew exactly what that meant. luckily, the conditions were absolutely perfect! i told him to paddle out and get one by himself. and he did it on the first wave that came by!
it was just us 2 kids playing around in the big ocean. surfing and laughing…
i caught so many good waves too! i just couldn’t let them pass me by…
i’m always coaching from all angles. this time, i’m right in back yelling “paddle!!!” haha.
then when i see the open face of the wave, i know it’s going to be an amazing ride. that makes me so happy!
then jumping back on Mayuki and enjoying the ride back. this is when the 2 of us are super happy!
day 2 of Boot Camp for Amari-san. surfing 10x better and enjoying the ride 100x more! good job Amari-san! keep on surfing!
