Sacred Surf Spots

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as we were heading out, we see this local Hawaiian guy yelling “hey!!!” so we stop, he takes his board out of his case, leaves his backpack right on the ramp, comes up and says “hey, take me surfing!” being that this is Molokai, i welcome all the brothers. so i say “jump on bro!”

i never met this brother in my life, but Alika tells me “eh Kirby, i see you and your boat here all the time. i know you’re the surfer guy, so finally i get to surf with you. stoked bro!”

we had the best session! Alika took us to his secret spot, nobody was out, and the waves were absolutely perfect! he told me “brah, this is the best way to meet people. you guys just made my day. you’re welcome here anytime. when you drop me off later, i get fish for you.”

after we surfed, Alika got 5 fresh fish out of his backpack and put in our cooler. he gave me his phone number so now i have a new local surfer friend. the coolest Hawaiian you’ll ever meet. see you again my brother!

had some big waves in the channel on the way back so Mayuki rode the waves gracefully. loaded up the truck and headed straight to get something refreshing.

yeah! the Health Cove Bar Acai Bowl! it totally cooled us down and hit the spot.

nice overnight boat trip Asayama-san. you dove and surfed perfectly. got fish, got waves, and got stoke. i’m sure you will never forget those amazing waves you rode. sorry there will be no photos of any kind of surfing because those spots are all sacred. only for Hawaiians, and lucky Japanese like us. please treasure those moments because those moments don’t happen often…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide