Asayama-san is becoming like me. he just wants to surf with nobody around and enjoy the ocean. no crowds, no hassling, no stress, and the most freedom you can imagine. i checked Ala Moana earlier and the waves weren’t that good, so we drove 40 minutes to a spot nobody knows about. and yes, it was perfect!
you can paddle out and ride anything you want. the most freedom kind of surfing you can imagine.
thanks to this South swell, the waves were super nice size and super good conditions.
Carter’s been joining us and enjoying the freedom too!
i have a gopro so i can’t really shoot myself. i want to see how i’m foiling because i want to get better. but these selfies don’t do the job. so Carter took my camera after this and shot footage for the first time.
then all i had to do was ride high. it’s hard to believe that 6 months ago i was in the hospital, and now i’m foiling like Kai Lenny. haha. just joking…
and Asayama-san is surfing like Kelly Slater! and i’m not joking about that! haha.
passed by Diamond Head in the evening and saw some solid 6′ sets! double overhead and wild!!!
so i got my toy out and rode some of the most amazing waves!!! i’m so naturally high right now i don’t know what to do with myself!!!
